Sunday, April 18, 2010

Day Four- Easter



Easter Sunday morning, the last day of Holy Week. The plan was to learn the city better, locate Patio de Escuela, and then find the apartment of the host family. When we first arrived, Caitlin had the caballero at the front desk call Maria Jesus Arias del Pozo to arrange a 5 pm arrival at the apartment. We headed toward La Plaza Mayor, Cait wanted to try a cafe she'd seen there, she'd heard that it was great. I enjoyed my huevos tapa, but she was not impressed by the cappuccino. We headed down Rua Mayor and as we turned left at Casa de las Conchas, we heard drumming. Of course! Easter is the last day of Holy Week, why wouldn't they have a final procession? We could see the procession approach, it was a couple of blocks away. I noticed a young woman standing, waiting. She was wearing a Patagonia base shirt and a North Face jacket, I just knew see was American, so I asked her. I was wrong (as is so often the case), she was German but spoke excellent English. She was on spring break and had won a Spanish class in a raffle (that sure wouldn't happen in Alabama!). The different organizations that were involved in the procession each wore their distinct outfit, some played drums, some were drum and bugle corps. There were several with floats, all carried by caballeros. There was one float that had an empty casket, the symbolism is kind of obvious. The procession lasted maybe an hour, and I was sad that it ended.

I took a few pictures of Caitlin on the front steps of the church that we stood in front of while the procession passed. We then went down a street we had traveled a day earlier, and there was Patio de Escuela. I even remember staring at the statue in the middle of the patio on Saturday, not realizing it was an intended destination. One down, now to find the host family apartment. I lead us on an unintended wild goose chase for a while, but then figured out we were not where I thought we were. Once I got my heading, we made our way up Paseo Canalejas to Paseo San Antonio. We took a break in a nice cafe on Calle Mejico, snacked a little, drank a little, and used their wi-fi (we are 100% american). We made our way back to Paseo San Antonio up to Camino de las Aguas. About 8 blocks down the hill toward Rio Tormes we found 67 Camino de las Aguas. Two down, Cait wanted to take over the map and guide us to the hotel. We had been walking for several hours, so a short respite was in order. I could almost feel Caitlin's anxiety over meeting her host.

We arrived at 67 Camino de las Aguas at 4:59 pm and Cait rang the bell for apartment 2A. Nothing. "Ring it again, this time for more than just a second", I advised. Still nothing, Caitlin is looking at me like she wants to explode. "Let's just be patient for 5 minutes", is my next attempt at wisdom. Just as my cell phone is telling me my 5 minutes are up, a car pulls up and a woman gets out. She says something and Cait responds with "Si". The woman threw her arms around Cait and kissed her on each check. I was thinking this must be Maria (pretty safe bet there!) as she was retreiving a few bags of groceries out of the car. She then unlocked the door, kicked it open, and beckoned us to follow her to 2A. Caitlin was shown her room, given the rules for using the kitchen, and was told "esta es su casa". If I had to guess, I'd say Maria is in her mid 30's. She's married with two children, one son and one daughter. I liked her immediately, but this wasn't for me to like, Caitlin had to get used to her new situation. It was time for me to make my exit. I hugged Caitlin and we made plans to meet at the hotel at 8 pm.

Outside the apartment building, I decided to find the straightest route to the Patio de Escuela. So down the street I headed, turned right at the little store we bought a great pastry at earlier in the day. Up several blocks and turn left, into the park. On the other side of the park I ran out of known commodity, I now turned to the map and forged ahead. I walked a good swift pace as though I knew where I was going. I passed Iglesia de San Esteban, through a plaza, up an alley. The Plaza de Anaya is in between Iglesia Nueve and.....ahh some other really cool building. Cross Rua Mayor and up Vitoria to Re. I was at Patio de Escuela in what seemed no time at all. I pulled out my phone, hit the timer, reversed my steps back to the apartment. 19 minutes 10 seconds. I was pleased, this was not going to be a big deal. I returned to the hotel, my feet aching from a day of walking in stylish shoes.

I sat on the side of the bathtub, my feet soaking in hot water, tears streaming from my eyes. Although my feet ached, my heart was full of love and gratitude and hopes. I knew my daughter's anxiety level was high, but I also knew everything would be just fine. With each passing moment the problems and fears were being dealt with, and by the time I left for home, there would be nothing left to worry about. When Caitlin's knock came at the door, I had to dry my feet and eyes. I told her that I'd found the best possible route and we should walk it. We started at Patio de Escuela turned at Fe to Vitoria. Across Rua Mayor through Plaza de Anaya down the alley to the plaza in front of San Esteban. We arrived at the apartment, turned on our heals and headed back. I had already picked out a restaurant that was on the way back. As we walked, I made jokes about how her calves would get so big and muscular, she would have to pull up the zipper on her pants leg just to accommodate (I don't think this appealed to her). Dominico's Cafe was the place I had in mind, and it is fabulous. We were seated at a table, the waiter inquired of our hearts desires. When he realized we wanted a meal he was going to tell us we would have to go next door into the restaurant. But Dominic was in the house and holding court, and let that waiter know that we would be served right where we were. We ordered appetizers and entrees. When asked if the wi-fi had a password, with a wave of his hand, Dominic made it clear no password needed. I took Caitlin's hands in my own, looked into her eyes, and once again prayed for the perfect words of encouragement. Cait's cheese croquettes were light with a wonderfully subtle flavor. My onion soup was exquisite. The entrees equally delightful.

With the satisfaction of a wonderful meal we made our way up the alley, through Plaza de Anaya (Caitlin had to tell me about 10 times the proper way to pronounce it) and to the Patio de Escuela. I then escorted my lovely daughter back to the apartment of her host family. We made plans to meet at the patio at 8 am, so that billing problems with the school could be sorted out. We hugged, both of us probably tearful, as I walked away I called out, "Todo mi amor!"

In the bed at the hotel, with my feet aching, I prayed for sleep.......

4 comments:

  1. Stephen,

    Wonderful stories--felt like I was there. Did Cait tell you that San Esteban is St. Stephen?

    Can't wait for the next installment!

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  2. Oh, I knew Esteban is Stephen because I took spanish in high school!

    There is a little garage not far from San Esteban and we joked about us living in Salamanca and that little garage being called Taller Mechanico Esteban (Stephen's Garage). Like I said I was irrational but having fun.

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  3. Been wearing your Universidad de Salamanca sweater?

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  4. Your mother wears it regularly, especially if she is in the yard with Blanca

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